Transvulcania - The World Skyrunning Stage Tests Me

I straddle the trail with my hands on my knees. I zone out on the chunks of banana dusted in volcanic cinders mid-trail that my gut just expelled 3k past the aid station at kilometer 30. Ah relief from a grumbling stomach sapping my strength. I push on happy to be on the recovery side. Perhaps now I can regain my pace and work back up to Emelie Forsberg, Salomon professional athlete from Sweden, who just passed me 5 minutes back.

Still recovering my strength a kilometer later I spot Tim Olsen, North Face professional ultrarunner from the U.S., ahead laying back against the slope with his hands on his head. He doesn't look good I think.

“You ok?” I ask. Tim groans. “Here walk it off with me” I respond and hold out a hand to help him up. “Go on, I’ll be fine” he responds, “just an upset stomach.” I continue along and a moment later I hear him hurl violently just as another American, Josh Arthur, comes trotting up the path. I expected Josh to be well in front of me and am surprised to see him.

--

I met Josh at the Madrid airport on the way to La Palma. Josh, based in Boulder and running for Altra, is traveling solo and joins up with Jamil and myself on our way to La Palma Island for the Transvulcania race. We spend our first day in La Palma scouting some of the course, picking up our race packets, scope out the finish line, and grab dinner. Through the long weekend I meet, hang out, and get to know several other American runners as well as notable personalities in the ultrarunning community. Our shared moments at Transvulcania forming bonds which will be recalled with a smile or laugh some unknown time in the future. I am thrilled to have had the opportunity to join them this year.

--

I make a decision to not let Josh out of sight and attempt to get back into racing mode – not merely survival mode. We conserve our remaining drops in our bottles and question how long to the next aid station. I estimate I lost time over about a 5-6mile stretch smack in the middle of the longest section between aid stations, which also turns out to be ~2 miles longer than advertised. I find myself out of water with just a bit of my CarboPro/HydraC5 mix left. Josh seems to be fully out and suffering from the heat and dehydration more. Perhaps it is the desert rat in myself that keeps me feeling ok. We push along.

Finally, near to the aid station to replenish our parched bottles we come up on Mike Foote, co-director of The Rut from Montana and a North Face athlete.  He has also been having a rough day. A few words of encouragement pass – solidarity among us Americans – and Josh and I continue on. This course has not been kind to many of us.

Transvulcania is a 77 kilometer (45.5 mile) race with over 14,400 ft of climbing up and around volcanos and a caldera on La Palma Island off the coast of Morocco. Over 2000 runners started at the windy southernmost tip of the island just above sea level. Elbowing for place we stampede up and out of the starting gates and pierce the dark with thousands of LED headlamps. Volcanic dust gusts and swirls in and around us. This race is spectacular!

Lining up for the start - a mad dash up a hill and onto sandy singletrack.

The near-correct course profile found on a forearm.

The energy exuded by spectators lining our passage through towns and even dotting remote trails throughout yell words of encouragement, “Animo” y “venga ninos”, as we cruise by. I have never done a race like this. This is leagues beyond any major, big city marathon in the U.S.

The first 11 mile we ascend up and through the clouds with over 6000 feet of climbing. An hour into the race we are warmly welcomed by a glowing sunrise peaking above a sea of clouds below. The views are astounding and the ever changing plant communities and coastal views over 6000 feet directly below us are breathtaking.

The race takes us further up and around a giant caldera topping out at just over 8000 feet elevation. Once we are up on the rim of the caldera we scramble up and down steep jaunts. A few opportunities afford views down to the finishing town below and we realize how far we still have yet to run and descend.

Nearing the final climb up to the 51 kilometer aid station I have recovered and decide to push the pace up and over to get a head start on the 10 mile descent (and over 7000 feet) back to the ocean below. I expect Josh to come whizzing by any moment yet my legs seem to gain energy as I enjoy bombing down the technical, rocky trail. I feel I am making up good time as I catch a few tired souls. Then OOPS! My toe snags a root and I fly down the trail with my arms and chest leading the way rather than my feet. I screech to a halt and pause stunned. I slowly peel myself up checking my vital systems. A few scrapes on my hands, hip, and a banged knee. My knee throbs. SHIT! Is all I can exclaim.

I hobble forward as I dust myself off hoping to work out the knee pain through continued movement. Josh comes by just moments later. Encouragement is exchanged briefly as he hauls past. He looks strong. I begin losing hope in finishing in the top 20. Several more runners come flying by. My knee pain slowly subsides and I resume running just a bit slower than my previous pace as it will take longer to regain my confidence.

I pass a couple more runners that look heat stricken. I thank Tucson for keeping me somewhat heat adapted naturally. I come up to the final switchbacks descending steeply into the town of Tezacorte and the final aid station along the beach. The noise of the announcer and music below bellow up the trail. I dance down the rough cobblestone path when again I fly forward. I slam the same knee again! The pain seems to be magnified than from the previous fall. A Spanish runner comes up on me quickly and tugs at my arm. “Solomente cuatro kilometros mas. ¡Levántate! (get up)” he proclaims. At this point I would rather lay awkwardly on the stones and forget about the race. The challenges and demands throughout the course have been almost too much for me. I am out of reach of the race goals and targets I set. I feel like giving up, kicking off the shoes, and going for a swim at the beach just a few meters away.

But, I peel myself up – yet again – and I hobble down to the crowds below. The announcer goes crazy announcing me – something about “el Americano de Arizona y de el Run Steep Get High equipo”  – as I  run through. I pull my hat brim low to hide the pain on my face. At the aid station I refill my bottles, get hosed down with water, and trot off for the final 1000ft climb to the finish.

Folks dot the way offering encouragement to me. I look up ahead and behind and see that I am well by myself and decide to just run it comfortably in. My knee pain subsides yet again and surprisingly my legs and lungs feel pretty good. I just lack the motivation to push myself hard.

I top out the final climb and turn onto the near final straightaway about 400 meters from the finish. Barricades line the street with folks lining both sides. A police motorbike pulls in front of me to lead me in. Hands line the way looking for a return hand slap from me. Kids take turns running with me for 50-100 meters each. I look back to ensure no one will overtake me at this late moment. Seeing no one I melt into the satisfaction and enthusiasm of the swelling crowds and of completing a tough, grueling race. I finish 23^rd of 1488 finishers in 8hrs 40min.

The finish after hundreds of hand slaps the final kilometer.
Photo credit: Bryon Powell, iRunFar.com

Los americanos que representan.
Photo credit: Bryon Powell, iRunFar.com

This is how I will remember Transvulcania. It offered me the highest of highs for ultra Skyrunning and forced me to face some of my lowest of lows and rewarded me with sharing that finishing moment with thousands. For that I am thankful to my team Run Steep Get High for helping make this experience possible.

After a short recovery this week my training continues for heading to Chamonix, France for the Mt Blanc 80k June 26^th.

The volcanic coast near where we stayed with the volcano in the background
which the race took us up above the clouds to 8000+ft elevation.

Cruisin' Cancajos streets on La Palma Island.

Post race fun on the island. Scouting out cliff jumping options.

My splits through the race.

Transvulcania. Estoy listo.

Only one week to go!

My first international ultrarunning race is Transvulcania, May 9th, part of the World SkyRunning series. Held on La Palma in the volcanic Canary Islands (Spain) off the coast of Morocco it is 50 miles with over 14,000ft of climbing. My goal is to participate and be a top contender in both the World and U.S. Skyrunning series this year. The season begins now and preparations have taken months!

To prepare I have spent most of my free time running long each weekend - sometimes both days. Since recovering from Old Pueblo 50 mile race my last few weeks of intense training can be summarized into the following basic stats:

• April 20-26: 92miles/13hrs of running/10,700ft of climbing
• April 13-19: 62miles/8hrs/2,800ft 
• April 6-12: 96miles/14hrs/12,600ft
• March 30-April 5: 63miles/9hrs/1,000ft
• March 23-29: 118miles/18.5hrs/22,000ft
• March 16-22: 72miles/9hrs/4,600ft

These early warm spring days here in Tucson, Arizona have been perfect for mountain training. My training is really just an excuse to thread more mountain trails. Thankfully, I often have friends or group runs to share the views, snake sightings, and swimming hole cliff jumps. And, when the miles get rough training buddies help push me up, keep me honest, and often just help me pause and chat.

This spring has not been all flowers, yet the harder the week – either at work or in life – the stronger I run.  And, in reverse, the tougher the week in training the more resilient and greater clarity I have to be grateful for life’s lemons.  The week of March 23-29 - the most miles I have ever run in a week for training - I nailed my workouts and both long runs. However, equally intensive at the workplace that week I launched a stakeholder advisory group to restore surface water flow to Lower Sabino Creek. And, on a personal level through several difficult conversations I found clarity to work through critical relationship issues in my own life to start the rebuilding process.

This week is just one example of how my running has helped instill balance in my life. Running provides me mental clarity and physical stamina to excel in work and play. However, it has taken a shift in my daily outlook to achieve this level of performance. I now approach work and hard training blocks not as a burden but as a time to shine.

The summer racing season is about to begin and I am in my best shape yet for mountain ultra trail running! I am ready to shine! I eagerly await putting to test my gear and conditioning at Transvulcania.

I am humbly grateful for the support from my family, team, and sponsors, who have helped invest in my dreams. Estoy emocionado. Buena suerte a todos los participantes en Transvulcania.

Mountain mischief mid-run at a swimming hole

Skyrunning at the top of one of Arizona's Sky Islands

Enjoying trails and training with my friend Charlie

Contemplating the meaning of life mid-run creek side

Always in awe of the majesty of ever changing mountain scenes

Enjoying the support from my sponsors post 30mile mountain run
- Run Steep Get High, CarboPro, and Salomon

Lessons Learned Lead to New Potential

My recent course record (6:53:51 which was 5 minutes faster) at Old Pueblo 50miler – a hometown race – was bittersweet. Bitter in the lead up to the race, yet pleasantly sweet as everything came together for me that day.

Top 3 at Old Pueblo. Myself, Nate Polaske, and Sion Lupowitz.
Photo credit: Mindy Polaske

Race day weather was perfect, cool, not cold, in the early morning. I had friends to run with in the early miles. Volunteers helped me speed through the aid stations. I ran with my friend and training partner, Charlie, the first 25 miles until he had to deal with leg cramps. My training came together even as a “B” race thanks to my coach, Ian Torrence. And previously learned lessons regarding gear and nutrition enabled me to keep my pace strong.

And proof that my Salomon shoes help me fly even at the end of the race.
Photo credit: Joel O'Bryan

I used two handheld bottles from mile 7 and forward. One with just water and the other with a mixture of CarboPro and HydraC5. The first few hours of the race I aimed for ~200 calories per hour and then around half way dropped back to ~150 calories per hour. My new fueling strategy worked. My stomach held strong. I stayed hydrated. My energy held constant.

My goal for that day was to run the race specifically focused on expressing joy and grace.

The bitter bite came from some personal issues the week prior which I am still working through. I tried playing the mental blame game, feeling sorry for myself, and myriad other thoughts streamed through me. Of course that led nowhere. I prayed for direction to know how to start the healing process.

My Old Pueblo race was a beautiful reflection of making a mental shift in the final hours the night before. I found peace within myself.  I am continuing to learn and grow and I am thankful for that breakthrough moment only hours before the race.

I broke through years of being stuck on a proverbial plateau for many aspects of my life. The Old Pueblo race demonstrated to me new life potentials which I am eager to stride forward and work to achieve. 

My race was a demonstration of my own healing and mental outlook. Running calmly and with joy through an ultrarunning race for my first time was a revolutionary experience I recommend others strive to achieve. We are not destined to always suffer through ultras even though it does make for great stories.  

Most importantly I will be living life more fully, deepening my relationships with others, and striving to improve not merely maintain the status quo. From this new outlook I have already glimpsed new potentials personally and athletically. I hope to embrace new trials with heart and recognize the strength I can derive from them.

Now to refocus on running and with big World Ultra Skyrunning races coming up – Transvulcania in La Palma, Spain, May 9^th and MtBlanc 80k in Chamonix, France, June 27th – I will be mentally focused to race again with peace, joy, and grace.

Happy running to new heights!

Run Steep Get High

Enjoying the Tucson trails with Charlie Ware.

Ready to climb higher and leave behind limitations.

Black Canyon 100k – a race report. A scorching start to the season!

Flowers and love notes were not on our mind this Valentine’s Day morning at Spring Valley high school track. The early morning began with a chilly 50F start and a blowing wind. Within a few hours – in true desert fashion - it sizzled into the low 90s.

The Black Canyon 100k was part of the Montrail Cup series this year and the top 2 finishers for men and women gained automatic entry into Western States 100miles – a premiere ultra running race in America.  It was the most talented field in probably Arizona’s ultra-racing history. The big familiar names starting the race included Hal Koerner, Dave Mackey, Ryan Ghelfi, Kaci Lickteig, Angela Shartel, and a dozen more.

Five miles into the race a group of 8-10 of us comfortably wound along the single track watching the sunrise and barely paying attention to the couple of early lead runners 1-2 minutes ahead. My strategy for the day was to run at a comfortable pace for 40+ miles focusing on conserving my energy and staying hydrated to ensure a fast, strong finish.

Early into the race the pace was quick but comfortable.
Photo by Bret Sarnquist: www.longrunnutrition.com

In the first 20 miles I peed 3 times as an indicator to my hyrdation, I focused on breathing through my nose to control my pace and conserve moisture loss, and sipped on my CarboPro liquid energy.

Just after the aid station at mile 24, Ryan Ghelfi began his move with Ford Smith in tow. I decided to latch onto this small train and found myself easily keeping pace. We passed several runners and made our way up to the top 5. At the next aid – without a crew to speed my way through the aid station – I fell back about a minute. On a switchback ahead I saw that Ford was now leading Ryan and their pace had picked up slightly. I decided to stay on my own pace and slid back slightly.

Following the train. Starting to get hot!
Photo by Bret Sarnquist: www.longrunnutrition.com

Then Ryan and Ford took a wrong turn. I glimpsed them below on a trail and when I made it to the switchback ahead I realized it was actually a junction. The correct trail went in the opposite direction. I yelled but they were well ahead and probably out of ear shot. I continued on hoping they would realize their mistake quickly.

I made my way to the first river crossing and relished the refreshing flow of a desert river with what had become a searing sun overhead. As I made my way up the opposite canyon wall I glimpsed with relief Ryan and Ford making the river crossing.

Ryan slid past – on a mission – and made up quickly for the time lost with the wrong turn. Ford crept up soon after but less intent to push the pace as quickly now that the heat had set in.

Ford and I came into the Black Canyon City aid station, mile 37, together realizing we would soon move into 3^rd and 4^th place. A sense of excitement coursed through my mind.

Then a simple mistake on my part put the rest of my day in dangerous peril. I had mixed up my drop bag locations and in my confused state I forgot to grab a salt tablet to keep my electrolytes in balance. A mile down the trail I realized my omission but pressed on. Crossing the river a 2^nd time we started on a long switchback haul up the canyon wall. The heat drilled into me. My head became woozy, my body ached, and my energy suddenly evaporated. I realized I needed electrolytes badly but it would be 6 more hot miles before the next aid station. I slowed to a crawl and watched Ford climb strong up and over. I contemplated the effects of heat stroke and had to push away thoughts of disappointment and potentially dropping at the next aid station.

I passed the 40 mile mark and realized that instead of starting my race at this point it was now purely about surviving. I shuffled into the mile 47 aid station and immediately grabbed 2 salt tablets and downed it with cupfuls of Gatorade. I soaked myself with ice water and headed back out before I could think of alternate endings.

I found myself slowly recovering feeling fine on the downhills and flats but still without energy for the slightest bit of incline. I kept sucking on a mixture of CarboPro and Gatorade and dousing myself with cold water.

I did a mental self-check and found my legs to be strong – no aches and little tiredness. I realized how strong my legs have become and the potential they hold for upcoming races.

At the last aid station with 4 miles to go I realized I could still break 9 hours. I took another salt tablet, downed more Gatorade, and felt my energy reserves kick in. I estimated to finish before 9 hours I had to run under 8 minute miles. I imagined my recent fast finish focused workouts and easily covered the remaining miles faster than I thought possible and finished strong.

Post by CarboPro.

At the Black Canyon 100k I learned that racing ultras is just as much about focusing on survival as racing alone. With many complicating variables mixed together it takes a consistent calculating focus. However, even more critical is the ability to flow gracefully along the trail in overcoming both mental and physical challenges. I struggled mentally to remain graceful and through persistence I successfully rebounded from that long, low point in the race.

It was an epic battle among Ford Smith, Ryan Ghelfi, and Dave Mackey for the top 2 slots to Western States. All three raced strong and made it an exciting race to participate in.

Aravaipa Running hosted a great race. A highlight for me was relaxing at the finish post race, sharing stories, cheering on finishers, eating wood-fired pizza, and making new friends and catching up with old ones. 

Dealing with 2015 Jitters

I am like a 5 year old on Christmas Eve ready to tear into the presents piled under the tree. Why? Well...

For the second year I am continuing on the Run Steep Get High Mountain Running Team which has now partnered with Salomon! And also continuing as a CarboPro Elite Athlete. I am very thankful for their support and I am looking forward to a great year of mountain running and racing!

So excited that I even had my race schedule lined up in the first week of January! - a first for me.

Danger! This may entice you to go run the steeps! Here is a preview of the mountains I will be climbing.

Registered:
Jan 10 -- San Tan Scramble, San Tan, AZ, 50K - Placed 2nd and ran 5 minutes faster than last year! A fun low desert fast rolling course with a wicked climb and descent. A great race report was posted my friend Charlie Ware who I ran with for most of the race.
Feb 14 -- Black Canyon 100k, AZ, 100k - A Western States qualifier makes it a top contending race!
March 7 -- Old Pueblo, Sonoita, AZ, 50M - If my legs recover in time this is an ol' time favorite in my backyard.
June 27 -- Mont Blanc 80K, Chamonix, FR (ULTRA World), 50M - oh yeah! Need I say more?
July 19 -- Audi Power of 4, Aspen, CO, 50K - A tough ski resort mountain race that may help be competitive in both the world and U.S. Skyrunning series.
Aug 1 -- Tushar Sky Race (ULTRA US), 50K - Not sure if I am more excited about the amazing mountain course or the fact the race organizers use composting toilets instead of port-a-pots!
Sept 5 -- The Rut, Big Sky, MT (ULTRA US & World), 31M - This was too much fun last year and now more local fast friends will also be competing at this race.
Oct 4 -- Flagstaff Sky Race, AZ (ULTRA US), 55K - A great way to end a long Skyrunning series on Arizona soil.

Pending:
March 28 -- Crown King Scramble, AZ, 50KM - I would love to do this race but need to see how my legs are feeling before committing.
May 9 -- Transvulcania, La Palma, ESP (ULTRA World), 50M - still crossing my fingers hoping I can squeeze in! Please, oh please, oh please...
Dec 6 -- TNF Endurance Challenge, San Francisco, CA, 50M - this was too exciting to follow via IRunFar's twitter feed in 2014 that I figured I need to throw myself into the mix and experience it first hand!

Photo Source: The Rut

Actually, I am starting the year with mostly jitters and a dash of anxiety thrown in. It started in October when I won the 2014 US Skyrunning Ultra series. For the prize - an expense paid trip to a World Series Skyrunning race - I selected Mount Blanc 80k in Chamonix, France which includes intense climbing, the world's best competition, stunning scenery, and a foreign mountain range.

Then to add to my jitters I flushed out a demanding 2015 race calendar which included my 2014 favorites The Rut and Flagstaff Sky Run.

So, to control the jitters I need to focus on tasks at hand and remain in the present.

Making a few specific New Year's running resolutions has seemed to help:

First, I signed up with a coach. I did well in 2014 and remained disciplined and consistent. But, I felt it was time to invest in my ultrarunning career and move from pure determination to a bit more finesse. The assurance and confidence I am gaining with my coach has helped ease the jitters and keeps me focused.

Second, I resolve to take advantage of being a trail runner whenever I can. I learned this from my buddy, Charlie. So, now if I find myself near a trailhead due to work I bring my running gear along and enjoy some extra mid-week mountain trail time. I even have a monthly running check-in meeting with my boss!

Third, I realized it will take more than just running to gain strength. I schedule in a weekly yoga session, a couple of drill/plyos sessions, and even an occasional bike ride or hike.

What has helped you so far this year stay focused and in the present?

Photo source: Vo von Sehlen, The Runner's Edge

 Photo: Ian Sharman.

Beating Out My 15 Miles of Disappointment

I beat last year’s time at Javelina Jundred by 69 minutes with a first place win over top rated competition.  And yet I didn't train specifically for Javelina, a 100mile race, coming off of a summer race series of much shorter mountain races.  So how did I pull through?

Javelina Jundred 100M with Oswaldo Lopez and Miguel Lara Viniegras.
Photo: Chriss Furman Photography

Waves of disappointment swept over me repeatedly in the last 15 miles of my Javelina Jundred race. My pace was slowing down and I felt I wouldn't meet my goals. I was beating myself up mentally. With 9 miles left to go, my wife joined me as a pacer.  Despite all her encouragement I still struggled mentally.

Near the top of the last climb with 5 miles to go I literally spewed out my negative mental suggestions onto the side of the trail. Took a swig of water to flush my mouth and set off running with my pace quickly recovering.

Not sure how but I made it! ...and the 2014 season ended greater than I had imagined! Relief and gratitude swept over me.

I am truly grateful for all of the support along the way from family, God, old and new friends, race volunteers, competitors, and more. Tremendous support also came from the Run Steep Get High Mountain Running Team and CarboPro - many thanks!

Finishing Javelina Jundred in 1st!
Photo: jeffgenovaphotography.com

Relieved to be done and ready to sit
down at Javelina Jundred.
Photo: jeffgenovaphotography.com

The progress gained and confidence built this ultra trail running season was perfectly expressed in my Javelina Jundred 100mile final race of the season. 1st overall, 69 minutes quicker than the previous year, and I ran 99% of the race. I persisted and accomplished the goals I set out to achieve.

Expert race direction by Aravaipa Running and top runners including Miguel Lara Viniegras, Oswaldo Lopez, and Kaci Lickteig made it a truly memorable race. Miguel, a Tarahumara speedster, finished 2nd overall and strongly applied the pressure to keep me running. Oswaldo, a past winner of Badwater 135, may not have had his best day but stayed cheerful and positive. Kaci, finishing 3rd overall and 1st female at Javelina, set a new course record!

My post-race interview
Other post-race interviews

Reflecting back my primary goal stemming from previous years of over training injuries was to stay injury free - and I did! At several points throughout the season I thought I would have to take time off, DNF or DNS (did not finish/start), etc. Prayer and support from my wife led me through these trials. Working to stay mentally focused and spiritually minded paved the way for a strong, successful season.

Enjoying the day volunteering with

friends. Photo Kristi McCauley

At the moment I am truly enjoying some time off training and racing. Volunteering at the inagural Colossal Vail 50/50 near Tucson, AZ I had a blast supporting both friends who organized the race and friends who ran the race. Beautiful weather, rolling scenic vistas, and a down home feel made it a special event that should be on your racing plan for next year. My local trail training buddies swept the top podium places for both the 50K and 50M races.

I found that volunteering at a race is not only a gift to the runner competing but also a gift to the volunteer him/herself. After volunteering race day I left with deeper meaning friendships, new friends, and a heightened sense of place in this growing movement of trail runners.

Huffin' it up the mountain in
Flagstaff. Photo: Ian Sharman.

Looking forward I have begun mapping out my 2015 season. My focus will be on the Skyrunning Ultra series events again including 1 (maybe 2 if my funds allow) races abroad on the international stage (travel and fees covered thanks to my 1st place overall in the U.S. series this year). Anyone care to join me in Chamonix, France, June 27th for the Mont Blanc 80K?

I will continue to build on the great training and racing lessons learned this year to continue my forward progress as an elite mountain trail ultra runner through 2015!

Skyrunning: The Highest Footrace in Arizona

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